In New York, there is a quintessential immigrant confection, the rainbow cookie also known as the tricolore cookie, seven layer cookie, Venetian cookie, Napoleon cookie, etc. While its origins are somewhat disputed, there’s no doubt that these little piccola pasticceria are popular in both Italian and Jewish bakeries in the tri-state area especially around the holidays.
While almond flavored desserts are very popular in Northern Italy, there is no trace of these cookies originating from Italy. Instead, its said to have been created by Italian immigrants in New York. Jewish immigrants in New York put their own twist on these classic cookies, by converting the recipe to be pareve, mainly by swapping margarine for butter. Additionally, there can also be swaps for the AP flour for matzoh or almond flour.
I have very fond memories of these types of cookies growing up, longingly eying the tray of rainbow treats in my local bakery or digging through the cookie platter during family events to find the prized rainbow cookie, usually of which there were only 3 or 4 in each platter.
In our episode today, we talk about the cold case of Mandy Stavik, whose murder was miraculously solved 30 years later by a gutsy Bakery worker, Kim Wagner.
I found this recipe through Deb from Smitten Kitchen which was first printed in Gourmet Magazine back in 2005. The recipe is fairly simple, one which I actually think could be simplified further by not having to meringue the egg whites separately, and instead by aerating the eggs at the start.

YIELD: Makes about 5 dozen cookies ACTIVE TIME: 1 1/2 hours TOTAL TIME: 11 hours
INGREDIENTS
- 4 large eggs, separated
- 1 cup sugar
- 1 (8-oz) can almond paste
- 2 1/2 sticks (1 1/4 cups) unsalted butter, softened
- 1 teaspoon almond extract
- 2 cups all-purpose flour
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 25 drops red food coloring
- 25 drops green food coloring
- 1 (12-oz) jar apricot preserves, heated and strained
- 7 oz fine-quality bittersweet chocolate (not unsweetened), chopped
PREPARATION
- Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 350°F. Butter a 13- by 9-inch baking pan and line bottom with wax paper, leaving a 2-inch overhang on 2 ends, then butter paper.
- Beat whites in mixer fitted with whisk attachment at medium-high speed until they just hold stiff peaks. Add 1/4 cup sugar a little at a time, beating at high speed until whites hold stiff, slightly glossy peaks. Transfer to another bowl.
- Switch to paddle attachment, then beat together almond paste and remaining 3/4 cup sugar until well blended, about 3 minutes. Add butter and beat until pale and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add yolks and almond extract and beat until combined well, about 2 minutes. Reduce speed to low, then add flour and salt and mix until just combined.
- Fold half of egg white mixture into almond mixture to lighten, then fold in remaining whites gently but thoroughly.
- Divide batter among 3 bowls. Stir red food coloring into one and green food coloring into another, leaving the third batch plain. Set white batter aside. Chill green batter, covered. Pour red batter into prepared pan and spread evenly with offset spatula (layer will be about 1/4 inch thick).
- Bake red layer 8 to 10 minutes, until just set. (It is important to undercook.)
- Using paper overhang, transfer layer to a rack to cool, about 15 minutes. Clean pan, then line with wax paper and butter paper in same manner as above. Bake white layer in prepared pan until just set. As white layer bakes, bring green batter to room temperature. Transfer white layer to a rack. Prepare pan as above, then bake green layer in same manner as before. Transfer to a rack to cool.
- When all layers are cool, invert green onto a wax-paper-lined large baking sheet. Discard paper from layer and spread with half of preserves. Invert white on top of green layer, discarding paper. Spread with remaining preserves. Invert red layer on top of white layer and discard wax paper.
- Cover with plastic wrap and weight with a large baking pan. Chill at least 8 hours.
- Remove weight and plastic wrap. Bring layers to room temperature. Melt chocolate in a double boiler or a metal bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water, stirring until smooth. Remove from heat. Keep chocolate over water.
- Trim edges of assembled layers with a long serrated knife. Quickly spread half of chocolate in a thin layer on top of cake. Chill, uncovered, until chocolate is firm, about 15 minutes. Cover with another sheet of wax paper and place another baking sheet on top, then invert cake onto sheet and remove paper. Quickly spread with remaining chocolate. Chill until firm, about 30 minutes.
- Cut lengthwise into 4 strips. Cut strips crosswise into 3/4-inch-wide cookies. We found that dipping a serrated knife in hot water and wiping the knife dry before cutting help prevent any major cracking of the chocolate shell. It takes a bit longer, but you preserve the look of each individual cookie.
Cooks’ note: Cookies keep, layered between sheets of wax paper or parchment, in an airtight container at room temperature 2 weeks.

Enjoy these. We won’t judge you if you eat the whole tray, but you’re going to be very popular if you share these with friends.




